The City of York - One of the major cities of the world

'The history of York is the history of England '

said King George VI

The articles on this page are very wide ranging and are taking some time to develop - so if some of them say'ready soon' please accept our apologies - we are extending the range of available items on a week by week basis - just keep clicking !

Tourist Attractions in the City of York'       

Museums

Current  weather forecast for York

'History of the City of York'                        

Facilities in the City of York'                      

Historical Buildings and Streets 

People of interest in the history of York

Seasonal Events 

'Recreation - how to spend your time'    

The climate and geology of York

'Where to get further information - links'

'Places to see slightly further afield' 

Topics and Institutions of interest in York's history

The different periods in York History

The Sheriff of York – an ancient office

York Roman Festival   (click on link)

 

 

 

 

 

 

York History

An Overview                For more detail  see  Detailed History

People of interest in the history of York

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York was founded by the Romans in 71 AD and soon became a major military installation of the British Province. Several Roman Emperors based themselves at York, and Constantine the Great was proclaimed Emporer in York.York expanded to become a major social, economic ,military and political centre of the Roman Empire.

After the fall of Rome,in the 5th Century, the area was invaded by Anglian settlers who founded a Kingdom centred on the city of Eoforwic, which became a centre of great learning whose influences spread throughout Europe . In the 7th Century Paulinus founded a small Minster on the site of the previous Roman Headquarters, which after several periods of rebuilding over hundreds of years became the magnificent building we see today.

In the 8th and 9th Century , Viking incursions led to the establishment of a Viking Kingdom with York as its capital, and in its heyday York was one of the cultural jewels of the Viking civilisation.

After the Norman conquest, York was destroyed but soon recovered to become one of the powerful mediavel cities of the land, having in common with London its own mayor ( later Lord Mayor) and Sheriff. In the 18th century, the former glories of York were fading , but were revived as York became the centre of high society and entertainment, and in the 19th century, George Hudson, the Railway King, made his city the centre of a hub of railways that revived the former propsperity of the City.

Today , York is a vibrant ,pulsating place, sure of its place at the centre of European cultural history and development .

The next sections of this article give details of the different periods in York's varied history, and of the people and institutions who helped to form the City we see today.

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The different periods in York History

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' The Romans 71-425'

'The Anglians 425-800'  ready soon

' The Vikings 800 to 1066' ready soon

'Post conquest 1066 to 1600' ready soon

 'Early Modern 1600 to 1800' ready soon

'Modern period 1800 up to date' ready soon

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People of interest in York's history

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' Guy Fawkes'

'St Margaret Clitherow' ready soon

'Constantine the Great ' ready soon

' Sir Thomas Fairfax' ready soon

'Eric Bloodaxe' ready soon

'Mary Ward' ready soon

'King Richard III' ready soon

George Hudson - the Railway King' ready soon

 

 

 

 

 

Topics and Institutions of interest in York's history

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'The Sheriff of York'

The Ancient Assize of Ale ready soon

'Architecture of York' ready soon

'Churches of York' ready soon

'The Ancient Guilds of York' ready soon

'The Lord Mayor of York' ready soon

'The Mansion House' ready soon

'Military history' ready soon

The Ainsty of York ready soon

'York Minster' ready soon

 

 

 

Where to get further information

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The following web sites will give further information about attractions in or near York, or topics of interest about York :-

Heritage and attractions

www.york.gov.uk/heritage/index.html

Castle Howard

www.castlehoward.co.uk

Harewood House

www.harewood.org

Impressions Gallery

www.impressions-gallery.com

Jorvik Viking Centre

www.jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk

Millenium Mystery Plays

www.mysteryplays2000.org

York Brewery Company

www.yorkbrew.demon.co.uk

York Dungeon

www.yorkshirenet.co.uk/yorkdungeon

Events and information

www.thisisyork.co.uk

 Events and information (2)

www.yorkgateway.co.uk

York Archaeological Trust

www.pastforward.co.uk

York Minster

www.yorkminster.org

 

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Tourist Attractions in the City of York

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Museums 

Seasonal Events 

Historical Buildings and Streets      

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Historical Buildings and Streets

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York Minster           -  The largest medieval cathedral outside Italy

The Bar Walls        -  The thirteenth century stone walls and gates of the City

St Margaret Clitheroe’s shrine  - The house of a martyred saint

The Multangular Tower – a part of the Roman defences still standing 25 feet high

Various medieval Guildhalls – including the magnificent Merchant Adventurer’s Hall

The Shambles  -   a medieval street virtually unchanged for 600 years

Fairfax House      -   A beautifully restored Georgian Town House

The Mansion House – Residence of the Rt Hon the Lord Mayor, a member of the Privy Council

The Churches of York -  Most of the medieval stained glass of England is within York

Clifford’s Tower -  A uniquely designed stone keep of the medieval castle- a site of pilgrimage for

                            Jews  because of the massacre that occurred there

Micklegate  -       A well preserved Georgian Street

Lady Row    - The oldest surviving row of houses in England

The Roman Bath -  A public house where the Roman Baths can be visited

See  'Where to get further information - other web sites'

 

 

The Museums of York

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The National Railway Museum -  Locomotives and rolling stock from 1840 onwards

The Castle Museum -  a collection of everyday objects and recreated streets

The Jorvik Museum -   The streets of Viking York recreated on original site

The Yorkshire Museum – a major regional museum with Roman artefacts

The ARC -  an archaeological museum where artefacts from all periods can be handled

The Museum of Farming -  A museum of Yorkshire farm history

Houlgate village – a recreated Viking village

York City Art Gallery -  A well stocked broad ranging collection

The Impressions Gallery  - A modern photographic gallery

The City Archives – the best preserved ancient records in England going back 700 years

The Bar Convent Museum – The history of Catholicism in the North of England

See  'Where to get further information - other web sites'

 

 

 

Seasonal Events                                                               

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York Early Music Festival in summer

The Lord Mayor’s parade in early summer

The vintage vehicle rally usually in July

The Elvington Air show in August

The Jorvik (or Viking Festival of the Jarl) in February

The York Festival of food and drink in Summer

The Assize of Ale in August  :-

        Henry III ordered the Sheriff to test the quality of the City’s ale –

        And the onerous task is still carried out with great pageantry to raise money for charity 

In December the famous St Nicholas’ Fair, when the whole city comes alive.                

See  'Where to get further information - other web sites'

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Facilities in the City

See also 'Where to get further information - other web sites'

On the bypass heading North , there are a number of out of town shopping facilities. In the City itself, there is a wide range of shops and a wide diversity of tourist attractions. There are a number of good guides available (we stock some at the house) . There are good rail and bus facilities, and churches of all denominations. There are theatres, cinemas, and also the city has a most diverse musical culture. It is a centre of the antique book trade, and its horse racing meetings are of world renown. York is one of England's gems - we could not hope to cover it in a few words such as this, but some of the web sites that are cross referenced under further information will provide much more detail.

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Beyond the City

See also 'Where to get further information - other web sites'

If you want a good pub away from the tourists, try a village outside York. Rufforth, Askham Richard, Askham Bryan, Poppleton (which boasts that rare kind of pub where John Wesley spent a night ! ), Acaster, Bishopthorpe. They all have good pubs, many of them providing food to a high standard , but at prices aimed at the locals instead of the tourists.

For days out, try the Dales, (Herriot country) ,the North York Moors (Heartbeat country ), Castle Howard (Brideshead revisited country), Whitby ( Dracula country) , Scarborough, Knaresborough, Fountains Abey, Rievaulx Abbey,the brewery tours at Masham - even a day out to Leeds where there are shops, the National Armouries Museum and other attractions.

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 ' The Romans 71-425'                                                           Return to top of page

The Roman Ninth legion advanced on York in 71 AD in support of the local Brigantine tribal queen in a civil war that was ostensibly threatening the Roman state, but was in reality simply an excuse for intervention and annexation. The Brigantine capital was a few miles to the North West at present day Aldborough, but the Romans established a camp on what is thought to have been virgin territory, at the confluence of the rivers Foss and Ouse. The camp subsequently became known as Eboracum and developed into a fortress.

The legion was commanded by Quintus Petilius Cerialis, the prefect of the Emperor and hence the direct predecessor in office of the present day Sheriff of York.

The Romans could always choose a good site, and the choice of York was inspired. During the glacial periods the glaciers had not only carved out the now sheltered vale of York but had dumped  their scourings in what is known as a glacial moraine that forms two ridges across the Vale of York. The Vale at that time was boggy and marshy, but the ridges had been exploited by early man as a route of  communication from East to West. Where the force of two combined rivers had burst through the moraines, just South of York , the east/west land communication  was supplemented by nort/south rive communications with outlets to the sea, and south to the river systems of southern England. By building their camp on the raised land between the two rivers, effectively the Romans had water defences on almost three sides, and a camp with splendid communications. A camp  in the middle of the vale of York effectively commanded the narrow routes to the north and Scotland at the top of the Vale, and in later times was used by the Romans as the command centre for the defence of England (or more correctly Britannia) on the wall known as Hadrian’s Wall  .

In time the strategic importance of the camp was recognised and the camp became a legionary fortress. The legion was replaced by the Sixth Legion and the Ninth Legion disappeared mysteriously into history. Outside the fortress there developed a civil town with a forum and other amenities. The growth in importance of the City was accelerated when it was used by the Emperor Severus as his base for his campaigns in the North in the early second century AD and became the de facto capital of the Roman Empire for a period of some years. This process was repeated in the early 3rd Century when the Caesar Constantius Chlorus was based in York , and his son, later to become Constantine the Great was proclaimed Emperor in York. It is said that the imperial palace was a magnificent sight ( probably located somewhere near the present Norwich Union insurance building) being faced with glistening marble and gold decorations. There is some evidence that the villa of Constantius Chlorus may have been located at Acomb Grange.

This growth in the importance of the city was mirrored in its legal status. First a camp, then a legionary fortress , then a colonia ( a city of very high status – the city of Lincoln , also a colonia derives its name from Lindum Colonia, its Roman name) and finally, it is thought that Eboracum attained the ultimate status of an imperium along with a select band of other cities such as Rome and Constantinople. It is said that the Emperor Constantine granted the keys of the kingdom of heaven to the bishop of Eboracum along with the bishop of Rome, and hence to this day the Archbishop of York has the same keys as the Pope in his coat of arms.

The end came suddenly , as with all Roman life, when the legions departed in 425 AD to meet the inroads by barbarians into Italy and the Emperor Honorius told the citizens who petitioned him to defend them against Saxon raiders that they should look to their own defence. Within a generation, only a ghost of Roman life continued although it is probable that the defences of the city continued in use thereafter. Clearly, such a site of good communications and relatively easy defence would commend itself to any invader or settler.

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The City of York

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Guy Fawkes - the only man ever to enter Parliament with honest intentions !

Guy Fawkes was born in York, in a house just off Stonegate. Young's Hotel in Petergate claims to be his birthplace, but actually the house is behind the site of the present hotel

Guy Fawkes was a pupil at St Peter's School in York and was a member of the plot to kill King James I and restore the Catholic faith, by blowing up the Houses of Parliament at the State opening by the King. The plot was betrayed and the plotters were arrested, and Guy Fawkes was hung drawn and quartered.

The celebration of Guy Fawkes night or Bonfire night on November 5th, when bonfires are held to commemorate 'gunpowder,treason and plot' in fact arose out of the commemoration of a quite different event, some 80 years after Guy Fawkes was executed. On 5th November 1688, King William and Queen Mary ascended the throne after the Glorious Revolution that instigated the system of constitutional monarchy. It is this event that was originally celebrated on 5th November.

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The Sheriff of York

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Peter Brown and Carol Brown of Acomb Grange,York are previous holders of the offices of Sheriff and Sheriff’s Lady of York.

The Crown offices of the Sheriffs of England are one of the oldest official offices, with their roots traceable to the seventh century. The ‘Shire Reeves’ were the officers of the Crown in each county enforcing the King’s law and representing the Crown in legal and official duties. The present day High Sheriffs of the Counties of England can trace their offices back to the tenth century. The thirteen city sheriffs of England and Wales, ( in a typically English way they rank over the High Sheriffs) exercise the same functions in the Cities that have a status of a County. These are places such as London, Berwick,Lichfield and,of course, York.

The present office of Sheriff of York was created in the 14th century by King Richard II. At a time when the King was weak and the City was strong, the City of York gathered unto itself many powers that were quasi independent of the crown, such as the right to raise an army in arms, to levy taxes, and to appoint its own Sheriff. All other Sheriffs of England are appointed by the Monarch, by the process known as ‘pricking’. The Sheriff of York, on the other hand is appointed by the Lord Mayor of York, and can hold office for one year at a time, whereupon he can be removed by the monarch. His official title is Her Majesty’s Sheriff of the City and County of York. Under a typically English and later British compromise, the Lord Mayor of York ranks second to London in the State order of precedence, but the Sheriff of York ranks over the Sheriffs of London. Only York and London, in England , have Lord Mayors who are holders of a Crown Office and are Privy Councillors, and entitled ‘Right Honourable’ . All other Lord Mayors in England are creations of the Municipal Reform Acts of the nineteenth century.

Richard II commanded the first Sheriff to ‘test the allegiance of men assembled in company in York, by requesting them to draw their swords in salute with their left hands’ ( ie the none threatening hand).  When sword carrying became less common, this eventually transmuted itself into a toast of a drink. To this day, in York, whenever the Sheriff attends any event, it is always the Sheriff who gives the Loyal Toast ( and ill behove any host who seeks to ask any other person present to perform the task). Etiquette demands that when glasses are raised in the Loyal Toast, they are raised with the left hand.

The quasi independence of the City from the Crown, and its right to raise its own army is signified in the City Coat of Arms, by the Cap of Maintenance, the Norman equivalent of a monarch’s crown. Befitting this status, the Sheriff of York is the Commander in Chief of the armed forces of Yorkshire, who owe their allegiance to him, and through him or her to the present day Queen. To many Sheriffs of York, this only takes ceremonial form, in that a Sheriff will attend many military ceremonies such as beating the retreat and take a salute, but it can take a more substantial form in that in times of war, the Sheriff is kept informed of events, as indeed happened when Peter Brown was Sheriff during the Gulf War in 1991. During their year of office, Sheriffs can expect to fly with the RAF, sail with the Royal Navy, and observe Army exercises, and have even been known to experiment with missile units !

The Sheriff is responsible for the maintenance of law and order in the City, so is theoretically responsible for the organisation  of the Courts and the provision of legal resources. In practice,today, almost all of this work is done by the official organs of state. However, even today, the Sheriff appoints as his Under Sheriff a local lawyer who appoints Sheriffs Officers whose duty it is to enforce the orders of the High Court with writs of fi fa, which can involve the seizure of goods. In the days before a police force, the Sheriff would carry out policing duties in the city. The Sheriff is the senior judge in the City, and tradition dictates that he appears in Court in such a role on at least one occasion in the year. Again, in practice, he does as he is told by a real judge.

One of the responsibilities of the Sheriff is to raise taxes, known as the fee farm of taxes. In the middle ages, the Sheriff would collect the taxes, and pay a part to the Crown, retaining a part for himself. Following a charter of Richard III, only those taxes on the sale of goods and chattels in the city that have been approved by the Sheriff may lawfully be raised on the citizens of York. In order to give full legal effect to the taxes raised by parliament, even to this day, the Inland Revenue and H M Customs and Excise pay an annual peppercorn to the Sheriff of York to enable them to collect taxes in the city.

One of the less pleasant tasks of a Sheriff was to organise executions, and attend executions, and this occurred well into the twentieth century, until the abolition of the death penalty in the 1960s.

In order to give full effect to his wide ranging powers, the Sheriff had the power to raise a ‘posse comitatus’ – the power of the County. In other words he could call up citizens into an militia to enable him to enforce his writ or to deal with natural disasters or emergencies. The word posse creates an image of a band of horsemen in the Wild West, but it is in fact a very ancient English law enforcement technique. The posse was last called up in York in 1947, during  serious flooding, when in  fact the posse consisted merely of the local army battalions. It is unlikely that a posse would be called up in future, because although the power still exists, the need for it has been superseded by legislation, such as the Emergency Powers Act, which gives local authorities power to take steps in an emergency.

The office of sheriff as a representative of the Crown epitomises a number of both English and British constitutional niceties.

One is the checks and balances of allegiance within the constitution so that allegiance is owed to a person with no power. This means that the armed forces and the judiciary have no authority of their own accord, yet the Sheriff cannot override them except in extremis.

Another is the different threads of authority running through the law. On the one hand is Royal Power, a residual power that still remains when all else fails, and is known as the Royal Prerogative, and is the authority which the Sheriff exercises. On the second hand is the Common Law, derived from German tribal laws of the Angles and Saxons, which places checks and balances between the Royal prerogative and the rights of citizens. And on the third hand is the authority of Parliament, which over centuries has chipped away at the Royal power and has advanced and strengthened its own power to control events. A simple example of this is how the Courts, the Police and Emergency Powers are now governed principally by parliamentary legislation, where once they were the province of the Sheriffs.

There is one interesting area where the Sheriff of York has immense theoretical powers, but in reality no power at all. Under the laws of succession to the Crown, upon the death of a monarch, the Privy Council meets and serves a writ of succession upon the Sheriff of York, as the senior Sheriff of London, and upon the Sheriff of Edinburgh as the senior Sheriff of Scotland. The two Sheriffs then mull over the matter of the vacant Crown, and are under a duty to annotate the writ with the name of the person who they believe to be the first in line practising Protestant descendant of the Electress Sophia of Hanover. If the two names are the same that person assumes the role of Sovereign of the United Kingdom. If the two Sheriffs cannot agree , they must try again. When the law was created shortly after the Union at the beginning of the eighteenth century , there were not many descendants of Sophia around, so it is provided that if the two Sheriffs run out of names of persons descended from Sophia, then the Sheriff of York proclaims the Lord Mayor of York as King of England, and the Sheriff of Edinburgh proclaims the Lord Provost of  Edinburgh as King of Scotland and the Union is dissolved.

In reality, the minute the Queen dies, Charles will be proclaimed King and the two Sheriffs are unlikely to have any part in the proceedings !

The Sheriff of York, as the Queen’s representative, is not permitted to enter the House of Commons during his year of office. The last time that happened it was the primary cause of a Civil War !  When Peter Brown was Sheriff, he had forgotten this when he was invited to take a drink with the MP for York at the House of Commons, and he was requested to leave in no uncertain terms.

When emigrants left these shores for America in the Seventeenth century, the powers of the Sheriff were still largely unrestricted by later Parliamentary legislation. This meant that the concept of the English Sheriff  as it was at that time found its way unfettered to America. In most present day States in the USA, the Sheriff as law enforcer is the primary role, but there are a number of States where Sheriffs have some of the other broader roles of the English Sheriffs. It is America where the posse is most familiar, but it is firmly rooted in an English system of Govermment going back to pagan Anglo Saxon times.

 

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Last modified 21/02/2007